
Just as the Italian palette isn’t accustomed to $1 vodka so the Italian derma is unaccustomed to $3 lodgings. Elisa greets our new accommodation with the verdict of “shit’ole”. I can’t argue with the assessment, it is indeed a shithole. But I like shitholes! They tend to be a step above a dive and are in a whole different class than the hovels that I have often fondly called home. Still, it’s one night and I offer assurances that the next town shall be an improvement.
So, why should you go to Hue? To be honest, if you miss it, don’t worry too much. The big attraction is the palace fort - a collection of neglected buildings undergoing very sporadic attempts at restoration. Elisa seems to get the most out of it whilst the guys and I amuse ourselves with a small cat, some flip flops and a camera. Cultured to the bone we are.
There are also meant to be some pretty impressive pagodas although, after an hour or so of searching, the only one Elisa and myself find is still under construction. If these are their historical highlights then local builders really take their tea breaks seriously.
It’s a pretty sharp exit from Hue on another night bus. The night buses in Vietnam are probably the best I’ve experienced and in stark contrast to those of India. You can lie down fully (unless you’re Big Chris) and there’s little danger of flying out the window or landing on the poor soul below you.
The only thing causing me any discomfort is a girl by the name of Kia. Verbal diarrhea doesn’t even come close! She is somehow able to pick up on a conversation as mundane as Oreo cookies and steer it towards politics, religion, tourism, waste management, globalisation and aquariums. Of course it quickly ceases to be a conversation and flows with the smoothness of Desperate Dan’s chin into a preaching monologue. Her travel companion is a poor, beaten down, shadow of a man named Duncan. Not that I got his name from him! He seems to have developed a physical muteness by acquaintance. I find the best way to combat Kia’s verbal volleys is to supply her with numerous movies to watch on the Ipod. When the batteries eventually fail it’s back to my old friend - Valium.